SUPERWASH OG ANDRE BEHANDLINGER AV ULL
Er ull egentlig bare ull?
Ull er et fantastisk materiale. Det varmer når det er kaldt, puster når det blir varmt, lukter lite og kan brukes mange ganger før det trenger en vask.
Men ull har én liten ulempe: Det kan krympe.
Det finnes en ganske enkel løsning på det problemet. Superwash.
Superwash er en kjemisk behandling som gjør at ullfibrene ikke hekter seg like lett sammen. Fibrene får et tynt syntetisk belegg som gjør at plagget tåler maskinvask uten å krympe.
Praktisk? Absolutt.
Men det finnes også andre måter å behandle ull på, med mindre belastning på miljøet. De er gjerne dyrere, og kan gjøre plagget litt mer krevende å vaske og ta vare på.
Forskningen på konsekvensene av Superwash-behandlet ull er fortsatt begrenset. Det finnes likevel en bekymring for at syntetiske partikler kan løsne under vask og ende opp som mikroplast i naturen.
Derfor velger vi, når vi kan, ull uten Superwash.
Ikke fordi vi vet at Superwash er det verste du kan gjøre med ull. Og ikke fordi vi har alle svarene. Men fordi vi mener det er verdt å la ull være mest mulig ull.
HVA KAN DU GJØRE?
Det vanskelige er at det ikke alltid står på plagget hvordan ullen er behandlet. Derfor er det heller ikke alltid enkelt å ta et informert valg.
Så spør.
Spør merkevaren eller butikken om ullen er Superwash-behandlet. Se etter ubehandlet eller sertifisert økologisk ull.
Litt mer kunnskap gir deg et mye bedre grunnlag til å ta en god beslutning.
Hva gjør Northern Playground?
Heldigvis finnes det alternative behandlinger for ull. I Northern Playgrounds økologiske ull og silke kolleksjon får ulla en behandling som heter Naturetexx Plasma. Det er en prosess hvor luft og elektrisitet brukes for å oppnå den samme "antikrympe" effekten. Det er en dyrere behandling, men sluttresultatet er at ulla faktisk er et rent naturprodukt, samtidig som selve behandlingen krever mindre energi. Det er det tyske selskapet Südwolle som har utviklet denne prosessen. Les mer her.
Vi håper det kommer mer forskning på feltet slik at det er mulig å slå fast de faktiske miljøaspektene ved superwash-behandlingen som er så vanlig.
Under følger en artikkel om temaet skrevet av blant annet norske Kjersti Kviseth.
ANTI FELTING (EASY CARE)
By: Kjersti Kviseth and Dr. Paul Swan
Questions are arising related to the true biodegradability of wool, how wool sheds microfibres, and how anti felting treatment affect biodegradation, specifically in marine environments.
Superwash
Most wool actually is coated in plastic, in nano-thickness layers provided by the Hercosett Superwash treatment. This is not compliant with the natural picture we are communicating about wool.
As Dr. Paul Swan puts it; There is an emerging issue on the links between micro- and nano-plastic pollution in terrestrial and marine environments, and health impacts in ecosystems (including human health impacts) - such links could prove damaging to wool's hard-won reputation as a healthy choice.
600 tonnes of polymer is applied to wool each year for machine wash purpose, 76% of this is Chlorine-Hercosett, where the Hercosett (polyamide-epichlorohydrin) component includes chemistry of known human and eco-toxicity effect (epichlorohydrin). Given the polymers are applied as a thin layer (microns thick), the residues could well pose micro-fibre or indeed nanoparticle risks.
According to Roy Kettlewell, a specialist in the wool chemistry field, Hercosett process stops the degraded proteins on the fibre surface from being washed away during laundry. The degraded proteins swell and help stop the scales from getting close enough to interact and lead to felting. Most of the alternatives to Hercosett rely on inter-fibre bonding to impart shrink-resistance, and this mechanism is not compatible with top processing because of subsequent gilling and combing operations.
Hercosett is classed as BAT [best available technology] in Europe, because it can consistently meet the required standards of washability on all types of wool product. This is a customer requirement and expectation that may be very challenging to change.
Polysiloxane coating
The most widely used alternative to Superwash. A reduction in volume of polymer applied per kg, (0.15% solids vs 1.5-2.0% solids for Hercosett) and a much lower toxicity risk. Process time and cost are its disadvantage.
Mercerisation
The mercerised merino process used to be the most common approach to machine washable wool for many top processors and spinners because it also improved handle for next to skin products. The mercerised merino process is slower and does weaken the fibre slightly, and the overall cost of yarn is 5 to 10% higher than chlorine Hercosett treated yarn. The mercerised merino process uses 2 to 3 times as much chlorine, thus AOX generation is significantly higher and an issue of concern.
Lanazym by Dr.Petry
In the 90's Dr.Petry developed an enzyme based process that complied with Cradle to Cradle principles. This process is less effective in terms of felting than Superwash, and difficult to control during the processing.
EXP by Schöller
A process from the Schoeller Spinning Group that enables the wool to remain machine-washable without the use of chlorine. EXP employs natural salts as an oxidizing agent, as well as an “ecological” polymer for micro patches on the yarn surface. Certified Blue Sign, Ökotex and GOTS.
NaturtexxPlasma by Südwolle
Naturetexx® Plasma is using electricity and air to provide the anti felting effect. The effect is slightly lower than for Superwash. The plasma treatment modifies the surface of the individual wool fibres altering the scales on the fibre surface that cause felting.
It also creates energy savings in the downstream dyeing process. Waterborne dyes are taken up more quickly, and penetrate into the fibre more easily, meaning that the dyeing process can be shortened and less energy is required as a consequence.
The electricity used comes from renewable energy sources. Certified for organic use by GOTS and IVN Best, as well as Bluesign® and OEKO-TEX®.
